Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Farewell, Indonesia
In the meantime, we wanted to wish Indonesia a belated happy birthday. The country celebrated its 64th anniversary of its independence on August 17. All of Jakarta was decked out in the national colors for the big occasion (above). We also found an honor guard at our hotel room the night before our departure (below).
Thanks to everyone who wrote to us during our four months in Indonesia -- your messages helped us through the difficult times. It was a remarkable experience and we'll post some pictures in the next week or two.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Celebrating in Indonesia’s Great Outdoors
Ten days before our departure from Indonesia, Danielle’s field research drew to a close. During the past year and a half, she’s endured sizzling Sumatran summers and frigid Siberian winters and interviewed close to two hundred people from all walks of life in both Russia and Indonesia. These two societies are divided by a host of cultural and socioeconomic factors, but do share the common experience of recent democratization. After witnessing two presidential elections, a number of protests and political forums in large international cities and small villages, the time has come for Danielle to start searching for meaning in the data.
You’ll learn more when “Democratizing Citizens: Political Transition in Russia and Indonesia” hits the dissertation shelves in two years. But first, we’re celebrating the completion of field work by enjoying some of Indonesia’s world-famous natural beauty. After spending most of our time in smog- and soot-filled cities, the countryside has provided a breath of fresh air.
Our first stop was Bukit Lawang Nature Preserve in North Sumatra, home to orangutans and other primates. Our six-hour hike brought us deep beneath the jungle canopy (left, click on the photo for a larger image). Since the period of Dutch colonization, palm oil, rubber and other plantations have infringed upon Indonesia’s rain forest. The government has committed to preserving remaining habitats, and Bukit Lawang is one of the few places left in the world where you can see orangutan in their natural environment.
Virtually anything can grow in Sumatra’s equatorial heat and humidity—cacao, cloves, resin and rattan were just some of the crops we saw during our hike. What is more, the region’s natural bounty means creatures often become fruitful and multiply, growing to surprising physical proportions. Armies of varsity-sized termites crawled over felled trees, looking as though they could carry off a Buick when they pooled their efforts.
The unquestioned kings of the forest, however, were the furry orange orangutans we saw swinging through the trees above us (right). Within our first hour of walking, we came upon a mother and child some twenty feet above the path. A large group of European tourists rushed in to take photos and video, and these primates sought privacy rather than the spotlight. The Sumatran orangutan mostly stays in trees anyway, content to eat fruit and bugs and rarely coming down to the ground. The long-tailed macaques (left), smaller relatives from the primate family, proved far more sociable.
Humans and orangutan share 96 percent of their genetic material, and “orangutan” is Indonesian for “man of the forest.” You could see some of the simian resemblance when we used our free arms to grasp at tree branches as our hike reached particularly steep and slippery stretches. Some of the hiking proved downright treacherous, and we weren’t coming across any signs of orangutan after our brief initial glimpses. But just when we had almost given up hope that we’d have a chance to spend any quality time with our distant primate cousins, our guide stumbled across a female orangutan napping in a low-hanging tree. For more than 15 minutes, we had a chance to see the creature up close and snap a few photos, including this one of her hand reaching out as her nap ended (below right).
During our last week in Indonesia, we finally made it to Bali, often the only section of the country people outside Indonesia know anything about. With its traditional dance and music, Hindu temples and gorgeous beaches, this island of 3.5 million teems with tourists and occupies a prominent place in the foreign understanding of Indonesia.
Not that understanding appears to be the primary goal for the majority of tourists in Bali. Most come from Europe in search of sun and surf, and alcoholic beverages and topless sunbathers are far, far more common here than in any other part of this Muslim-majority country. We’ve enjoyed our two days in Bali’s warm and calm ocean waters, but hearing German and French conversations at a poolside bars make it easy for us to lose sight of the fact that we are in Indonesia. I almost did a double-take when I saw presidential campaign bumper stickers along the beach yesterday. Indonesian politicians’ discussion of poverty alleviation, the role of Islam in public life, and ethnic separatism all seem a world away from Bali’s beach volleyball courts. Yet spending time among well-heeled, white tourists has probably served as something of a halfway house to the reverse acculturation process that will happen when we return to the United States.
The beach has provided welcome rest and recreation, but we gained a fuller sense of Bali when we stayed for a few days in a Hindu village outside the town of Ubud. More than 90 percent of the island’s residents are Hindu, as Bali was the refuge for the Majapahit kingdom that fled Java during the ascendancy of Islamic kingdoms in the 14th and 15th century. Unlike in Java, Hindu temples here are not historical showpieces—they are still in active use. On the evening of our arrival, women carried offerings of fruit on their heads and various avatar statues outside temples were outfitted with black-and-white checkered sarongs. Life in this Hindu enclave proves a far cry from the other parts of Indonesia where we’ve spent time. We were almost surprised to hear very faint strains of a Muslim call to prayer outside Ubud one evening. After it had become such a regular part of our lives for three months, it now seemed almost out of place.
Away from the tourist strip along the beaches, most of the Balinese landscape consists of verdant rice patties that stretch out for miles (left). On one of our days near Ubud, we had a chance for an up-close view by walking in and around rice fields one morning. Danielle ended up with a bit of a closer view than she wanted when she fell from one of the narrow paths into the muddy rice field below, taking our guide down with her. Fortunately, everyone made it out without a scratch, but our guide managed to lose his shoes somewhere in the quagmire. “All part of the trekking,” he assured us, and led us another mile or so in his bare feet.
Our trip to Bali also coincided with Indonesia’s highest profile antiterrorism operation in years, the August 7 shootout with Noordin Top’s Jemaat Islamiyah cell in central Java. This group coordinated last month’s attacks on luxury hotels in Jakarta, and their campaign of terror began here in Bali seven years ago with a bombing that killed more than 200 people. Rumors circulated that Top was killed in this police raid, but police announced today that he was still at large. Everyone in Indonesia has followed the story, but perhaps nowhere as closely as in Bali, where the economy depends on convincing foreigners that the island’s beaches are safe for sunbathing. A high-profile counterterrorist coup could help restore Indonesian political stability and bring more visitors back to Bali’s shores.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Cycling through the Heart of Batak Country
As racing fans around the world turned their attention to the Tour de France finish line at the Champs Élysées last weekend, Danielle and I completed our own Tour de Sumatra on the coast of
Monday, July 27, 2009
Another Day in the Sumatra Bureau
Posted by John
Some of the students speak an impressive amount of English, but since others struggle with it, I restrict my remarks to the basics. We talk about teenagers’ daily lives in the
Panicked, I started paraphrasing what I’ve read in Niall Ferguson and Paul Krugman. I trudged up everything I could remember about
But any anxiety regarding our dubious explanations of
Danielle handled this moment gracefully, if forcefully. She pointed out that we were not representatives of the
Even if Danielle were already a doctor of political science, this intrepid questioner should learn that doctors of political science mostly pore through data quietly and offer tentative conclusions restricted to their area of expertise. Instead, he appeared to think he was hammering Donald Rumsfeld or Paul Wolfowitz on cross-examination before the International Criminal Court in
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Fighting for Space
An afternoon walk on Jalan Setia Budi, the main street in our
Many offices close around 3 p.m. in
Of course, two-wheeled transportation on a sidewalk requires a contiguous stretch of uninterrupted concrete, which does not always exist in Indonesian cities. Fruit sellers set up their stands wherever they see fit, converting sidewalks into obstacle courses. And today, half the concrete squares on large stretches of sidewalk were pried open and removed, exposing fetid sewage canals below. Moments like these demonstrate why typhoid and Hepatitis A vaccines are mandatory for travel in
When they were accessible, sidewalks proved a tempting transportation option today since the curbside shoulders motorcycles usually favor along Jalan Setia Budi were strewn with mountains of trash. It had all the appearances of a garbage pick-up day, but these piles have lain dormant (or perhaps even grown) during the last 36 hours. With a mayor and vice-mayor thrown in prison for corruption earlier this year, and an interim mayor only designated recently after months of leaderless city government,
With
Sometimes, the space crunch has auditory in addition to physical implications. We enjoy peace and quiet in our more expensive home stay, but in most parts of town motorcycle drivers rev engines just meters away from people’s windows. Those windows don’t have glass, either, so any separation from the street proves impossible.
But just as we were settling in for two hours of quiet contemplation, a loud buzzing noise like a welding torch emanated from the back of the store where a few staff members were gathered. We assumed someone was making repairs, but it seemed odd they would set a silversmith loose in the cafe. When the buzzing persisted for about an hour, we decided our search for silence had failed. On the way out, we learned that they hadn’t set up a foundry after all; the place had become an impromptu tattoo parlor for the day. In a country where no one seems to have enough room, spaces sometimes have to serve dual purposes.
One Chinese woman with her own traditional medicine practice expressed concerns about Danielle’s childlessness and insisted on examining Danielle’s pulse to discern the source of her infertility. This woman’s first diagnosis was that Danielle’s husband might not be fat enough for conception. When Danielle assured this woman that I was taller and heavier than most Indonesian men, the woman replied, “You’re just too tired. You’re working too hard.” There might be something to that last point.
***
Four days after the
Even so, day-to-day life still feels more or less safe. One unsettling exception came when someone shouted English-language obscenities at Danielle and me from an automobile window earlier today. After three months of Indonesians greeting us with “Hello, Mister,” the two-word salutation we received today was far less welcome. In all likelihood, the outburst probably came from an Indonesian teenager who has watched too many American movies and doesn’t understand what vulgar English words really mean.
The episode surely doesn’t reflect most Indonesians’ attitudes toward foreigners, and our mood improved considerably ten minutes later when members of a boys’ soccer team called us over to talk to them. Several were wearing jerseys from Manchester United, the English premier league team that cancelled its exhibition match in
Saturday, July 18, 2009
The Day After
Posted by John
Yesterday’s bombings at Jakarta’s JW Marriott and Ritz-Carlton hotels killed at least eight people and injured more than 50. During the last 24 hours, the world has recoiled from the same haunting images that have dominated the news here: police patrolling amid shredded metal and shattered glass, plumes of smoke shrouding streets, and paramedics carrying blood-strewn corpses out of the rubble.
For Indonesians, the scene had a disturbing feeling of familiarity. The country endured four major terrorist bombings from 2002 to 2005, when the fundamentalist Jemaah Islamiyah organization killed more than 200 people in strikes against Western targets in Jakarta and Bali.
After four years of calm, Indonesians entertained hope that the nightmare of terrorism had ended. Instead, they woke up yesterday to news that bombs once again rocked Jakarta. Once again, foreign visitors were among the victims. Attackers even returned to the same Marriott where a car bomb killed 12 people six years ago.
The Ritz-Carlton and Marriott, regular gathering places for foreign businessmen and diplomats in the upscale Kuningan district, proved particularly inviting targets. Forces critical of Indonesia’s acceptance of international influences see them as symbols of Western encroachment. At least four of the people killed in the bombing were foreigners, including a New Zealand businessman who headed Indonesia’s largest cement company and an Australian mining executive.
During our three weeks in Jakarta earlier this summer, the city was taking security matters very seriously. Guards inspected the trunks and undercarriages of cars entering parking lots for shopping malls, hotels or government buildings. Concrete barriers shielded buildings from possible car bombs. And customers walked through metal detectors before entering Western-owned restaurants like McDonald’s.
With these stricter measures in place, people looking to strike targets in Jakarta would need to alter their strategy. Early reports indicate the suspected bombers did precisely that—instead of relying on a car bomb, the perpetrators checked into the Marriott as guests and assembled their bomb within the hotel.
These initial reports also suggest the bombers belong to Jemaah Islamiyah (JI), the terrorist group that conducted attacks in Indonesia earlier this decade and has coordinated efforts with Al Qaeda. Several JI members have been arrested and executed in recent years, but the group retains the ability to strike targets throughout Southeast Asia.
The timing of the attacks seems precisely calculated to disrupt political life in Indonesia. Last week Indonesians turned out to re-elect President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (SBY) with 60 percent of the vote. SBY’s first term witnessed economic growth, a sustained anticorruption campaign and the absence of terrorist violence. Now SBY’s domestic reforms will take a backseat as the focus turns exclusively to the government’s response to the bombing and its efforts to capture leading members of Jemaah Islamiyah. To the consternation of many in Indonesia, Noordin Mohammad Top, the Malaysian JI leader who masterminded the 2003 bombing of the Marriott, remains at large.
In a country that relies heavily on international investment and tourism, terrorism has deterred foreign companies from expanding business operations and dissuaded vacationers from taking trips to Bali’s beaches. The Australian government has already issued a new Indonesian travel warning its citizens, who were prominent among the casualties in the 2002 Bali nightclub bombings.
Yesterday’s attack has already caused at least one prominent cancellation—the English soccer team Manchester United called off Monday’s game in Jakarta against Indonesian soccer all-stars. The match may be rescheduled in neighboring Malaysia, but Indonesians will be deprived of the chance to see their county’s best players square off against international soccer stars like Wayne Rooney and Michael Owen in Jakarta’s Gelora Bung Karno Stadium. The cancellation will have an economic impact as well, with hotel rooms remaining vacant and food and souvenir vendors losing customers.
The Manchester United visit had been heavily promoted throughout soccer-crazy Indonesia, with humorous TV advertisements (below) and red-and-yellow United billboards throughout Indonesian cities. Several media outlets reported that some Manchester United team members planned to stay at the Ritz-Carlton that was bombed. Their cancellation is clearly not the most tragic part of the Jakarta attacks, but serves as an example that elements of Indonesia’s quest for a quiet, normal national life remain unfulfilled.
For all the horror that yesterday’s bombings caused, they must be placed in the context of the vast and diverse country where they occurred. Since Jakarta occupies the center of the Indonesian political, business and cultural universe, the shockwaves of the attacks were felt through the archipelago. The national government will certainly have to focus its resources on antiterrorism, possibly at the expense of worthy antipoverty and anticorruption programs that could have a beneficial impact throughout the islands.
Yet here in Medan, more than 800 miles away from Jakarta, life continues as usual for most individuals. People organize their lives around their local neighborhoods—buying and selling food at the local market, drinking iced tea with friends in the corner cafe, and playing badminton. None of these activities are likely to attract the attention of terrorists. That’s true even in a major regional capital like Medan with more than 2 million people—residents have ties to Jakarta, but life remains mostly self-contained. Detachment from Jakarta is even more prominent in smaller villages throughout Indonesia that have fewer than a hundred residents, most of whom will never travel to the capital city.
While Indonesians have died in this and other recent terrorist attacks, the bombings of luxury hotels, embassies and tourist nightclubs are aimed more at foreigners visiting Indonesia rather than Indonesians themselves. It’s a pernicious strategy that has the potential to isolate people eager to welcome new visitors and learn more about the world.
In spite of terrorist attacks, anti-Western sentiments have little currency among Indonesians, and everyone we’ve met has asked us about our country and our visit. Perfect strangers have welcomed Danielle into their homes to talk about their lives, their problems and their political opinions and expect nothing in return. This hospitality won’t grab headlines, but it’s a side of Indonesia that deserves at least as much attention as yesterday’s tragedy.